Swift

Tiny aeronauts in black and white

perform parabolas in flight

scoop their fill of gossamer wings

that cloud oblivious, numberless things.

Over rivers, mostly can be seen

high speed channel-skimming feats between

the banks and bridges, earth and sky,

the air made loose in which to fly.

But memory swoops as fast and free

and straight a thought returns to me:

a rock-strong refuge from the blast

where welcome peace, long years had passed;

a chance to mend and spirits lift,

when through the open doors, a swift

came flying in to find his rest,

and so were we, two pilgrims, blessed.

Estaing, June 2011

Shepherd's Prayer

Oh Lord,

When I've climbed up from the great gorge into the sun

and when my flock find bright yellow flower fields

where skylarks hang high above

and sing for joy from a web of air,

May the top of the hill come close

and the shaded road with plunging dam and wooded slopes

be kind beneath my weary feet.

And when the clifftop chapel's reached

and my woolly charges loosed to roam,

I'll find peaceful order still

Whilst outside,

let gushing winds and perilous cliffs and overhanging bluffs

give thanks with me

As I kneel in darkened candle dim

and ask these things of Thee.

Amen

Wild and Windy Aubrac

Conques to Figeac

Estaing to Conques

Nasbinals to Estaing

PG:
As if Nasbinals was not desolate enough, the road took us up to wild and windy Aubrac. Austere, grey and unforgiving when we were there. As we sheltered in the church we were not alone. Birds flew in to shelter too.



PG:
Lunch in Espalion.

Saugues to Nasbinals

PM:
Woke up to rain. Spent most of the morning lounging around waiting for a break in the weather, which never came to pass. Went to see the friendly old lady by the church before heading off past fellow pilgrims who looked like hunchbacks with their rucksacks hidden below colourful ponchos. On a sunny day this would have been a fantastic road to follow with weaving roads and rolling valleys. As it was the mood was dampened literally. Lunch in Le Malzieu Ville (famous for its spit roast) was a damp affair but triumphant for it's simplicity and carb content. Then back out into the torrential downpour, past steelworks and then more climbing up to the plateau. On an energy sapping day, we would have done better to have eaten little but often during the afternoon. Arrived in Nasbinals at the Hotel La Randonnee running on empty and desperate for a whisky and a hot shower.

Le Puy to Saugues

PG:
It was a long time in the saddle and if there was any doubt about whether fully laden touring bikes can reach reasonable speeds our top speed of 67km/h should despatch those doubts right away.

PM:
An epic day by anyone's standards. The early mass, much larger than any of us anticipated. The savage climb out of Le Puy that is best taken with gusto. The windy open plain above. Then the fantastic sweeping decent into Saint-Privat-d'Allier and lunch. Worthy detour to the chapel at Rochegude and then the best climb of the trip, along the Tour des Anglais (ironically). The peleton spread out beside the stream as we weaved through pine forests emerging next to a reservoir and then onward and upward before the descent to Saugues.





BC: So in Sauges after finally getting rooms at the Inn we were a little disappointed that the Inn's restaurant was closed that evening, particularly after seeing the treats on offer. So off we go to a slightly more modest establishment nearby that could be best described as sitting in the 'hearty' category of food production. Here two of our party became acquainted for the first time with one of France's more challenging offerings; the andouillette. A particularly stinky sausage made with assorted bits of beast. Credit to them both, they put on a brave face and munched through the arteries, bones and gristle. Those stiff upper lips hardly wobbled (theirs, not the sausages'). They almost became vegetarian that night.

Figeac to the starting line ... Le Puy

PG:
First day of riding so the glad rags de velo came out all pristine and like a Rapha catalog.



PM:
Loaded up the bikes and set out to follow the river, but soon got diverted and ended up on a fair old climb (with a brief stop at a boulangerie for brioche and later at a natural spring to recharge our water bottles), which after a couple of hours took us to the plateau leading to Le Puy. Stopped for a picnic and to admire the views in the heat of the midday sun. Then onward...


BC:
to the first of many fairly quick downhill runs. A lot of fun learning to take bends at speed. We arrived in Le Puy for late luncheon, having been treated to stunning views of the town on the approach road with its churches and statues on rocky perches.


PG:
A stunning day of riding. Whilst not strictly on the pilgrimage route it was possibly my favourite ride of the whole week.



PG:
Arrival in Le Puy was impressive beyond expectation.



PG:
We ended up staying in a dorm in the Youth Hostel in the old town very close to the Cathedral.

Mighty Fine Peregrines